You Can Do It Weather stripping
You can weather strip your doors even if you're not an
experienced handyman. There are several types of
weather stripping for doors, each with its own level of
effectiveness, durability and degree of installation
difficulty. Select among the options given the one you
feel is best for you. The installations are the same for
the two sides and top of a door, with a different, more
durable one for the threshold.
1. Adhesive backed foam: Tools-Knife or shears, Tape
measure
Evaluation -- extremely easy to install, invisible when
installed, not very durable, more effective on doors than
windows.
Installation -- stick foam to inside face of jamb.
2. Rolled vinyl with aluminum channel backing: Tools-
Hammer, nails, Tin snips, Tape measure
Evaluation -- easy to install, visible when installed,
durable.
3. Foam rubber with wood backing: Tools-Hammer, nails,
Hand saw, Tape measure
Evaluation -- easy to install, visible when installed,
not very durable.
Installation -- nail strip snugly against the closed
door. Space nails 8 to 12 inches apart.
4. Spring metal: Tools: Tin snips, Hammer, nails, Tape measure
Evaluation -- easy to install, invisible when installed,
extremely durable.
Installation -- cut to length and tack in place. Lift
outer edge of strip with screwdriver after tacking, for
better seal.
Note: These methods are harder than 1 through 4
5. Interlocking metal channels: Tools: Hacksaw, Hammer,
nails, Tape measure
Evaluation -- difficult to install (alignment is
critical), visible when installed, durable but subject to
damage, because they're exposed, excellent seal.
Installation -- cut and fit strips to head of door first:
male strip on door, female on head; then hinge side of
door: male strip on jamb, female on door; finally lock
side on door, female on jamb.
6. Fitted interlocking metal channels (J-strips)
Evaluation -- very difficult to install, exceptionally
good weather seal, invisible when installed, not exposed
to possible damage.
Installation -- should be installed by a carpenter. Not
appropriate for do-it-yourself installation unless done
by an accomplished handyman.
7. Sweeps: Tools: Screwdriver, Hacksaw, Tape measure
Evaluation -- useful for flat thresholds, may drag on
carpet or rug.
Installation -- cut sweep to fit 1/16 inch in from the
edges of the door. Some sweeps are installed on the
inside and some outside. Check instructions for your
particular type.
8. Door Shoes: Tools- Screwdriver, Hacksaw, Plane, Tape
measure
Evaluation -- useful with wooden threshold that is not
worn very durable, difficult to install (must remove
door).
Installation -- remove door and trim required amount off
bottom. Cut to door width. Install by sliding vinyl out
and fasten with screws.
9. Vinyl bulb threshold: Tools: Screwdriver, Hacksaw,
Plane, Tape measure
Evaluation -- useful where there is no threshold or
wooden one is worn out, difficult to install, vinyl will
wear but replacements are available.
Installation -- remove door and trim required amount off
bottom. Bottom should have about 1/8" bevel to seal
against vinyl. Be sure bevel is cut in right direction
for opening.
10. Interlocking threshold:
Evaluation -- very difficult to install, exceptionally
good weather seal.
Installation -- should be installed by a skilled
carpenter. Install by moving sash to the open position
and sliding strip in between the sash and the channel.
Tack in place into the casing. Do not cover the pulleys
in the upper channels.
A sliding window can be treated as a double-hung
window turned on its side. Casement and tilting windows
should be weather stripped with the vinyl nailed to the
window casing so that, as the window shuts, it compresses
the roll.
Install adhesive backed foam, on all types of
windows, only where there is no friction. On double-hung
windows, this is only on the bottom (as shown) and top
rails. Other types of windows can use foam strips in many
more places. Before applying caulking compound, clean
area of paint build-up, dirt, or deteriorated caulk with
solvent and putty knife or large screwdriver. Drawing a
good bead of caulk will take a little practice. First
attempts may be a bit messy. Make sure the bead overlaps
both sides for a tight seal. A wide bead may be necessary
to make sure caulk adheres to both sides.
Fill extra wide cracks like those at the sills (where
the house meets the foundation) with oakum, glass fiber
insulation strips, etc.) In places where you can't quite
fill the gaps finish the job with caulk.
Caulking compound also comes in rope form. Unwind it
and force it into cracks with your fingers. You can fill
extra long cracks easily this way.
Triple track, combination (windows and screen) storm
windows are designed for installation over double hung
windows. They are permanently installed and can be opened
any time with a screen slid into place for ventilation.
Double-track combination units are also available and
they cost less. Both kinds are sold almost everywhere,
and can be bought with or without the cost of
installation. You can save a few dollars (10% to 15% of
the purchase price) by installing the windows yourself.
But you'll need some tools: caulking gun, drill, and
screw driver. In most cases it will be easier to have the
supplier install your windows for you, although it will
cost more.
The supplier will first measure all the windows where
you want storm windows installed. It will take anywhere
from several days to a few weeks to make up your order
before the supplier returns to install them. Installation
should take less than one day, depending on how many
windows are involved. Two very important items should be
checked to make sure the installation is properly done.
Make sure that both the window sashes and screen sash
move smoothly and seal tightly when closed after
installation. Poor installation can cause misalignment.
Be sure there is a tightly caulked seal around the edge
of the storm windows. Leaks can hurt the performance of
storm windows a lot.
Frame finish: A mill finish (plain aluminum) will
oxidize, reducing ease of operation and degrading
appearance. An anodized or baked enamel finish is
better.
Corner joints: Quality of construction affects the
strength and performance of storm windows. Corners are a
good place to check construction. They should be strong
and air tight. Normally overlapped corner joints are
better than mitered. If you can see through the joints,
they will leak air.
Sash tracks and weather stripping: Storm windows are
supposed to reduce air leakage around windows. The depth
of the metal grooves (sash tracks) at the sides of the
window and the weather stripping quality makes a big
difference in how well storm windows can do this. Compare
several types before deciding.
Hardware quality: The quality of locks and catches has a
direct effect on durability and is a good indicator of
overall construction quality.
Combination (windows and screen) storm doors are
designed for installation over exterior doors. They are
sold almost everywhere, with or without the cost of
installation.
Installation
You can save a few dollars (10% to 15% of the
purchase price) by installing doors yourself. But you'll
need some tools: hammer, drill, screw driver, and
weather stripping. In most cases, it will be easier to
have the supplier install your doors himself.
The supplier will first measure all the doors where
you want storm doors installed. It will take anywhere
from several days to a few weeks to make up your order
before the supplier returns to install them. Installation
should take less than one-half day.
Before the installer leaves, be sure the doors
operate smoothly and close tightly. Check for cracks
around the jamb and make sure the seal is as air-tight as
possible. Also, remove and replace the exchangeable
panels (window and screen) to make sure they fit properly
and with a weather tight seal.
Selection:
Door finish: A mill finish (plain aluminum) will
oxidize, reducing ease of operation and degrading
appearance. An anodized or baked enamel finish is better.
Corner joints: Quality of construction affects the
strength and effectiveness of storm doors. Corners are a
good place to check construction. They should be strong
and air tight. If you can see through the joints, they
will leak air.
Weather stripping: Storm doors are supposed to reduce
air leakage around your doors. Weather stripping quality
makes a big difference in how well storm doors can do
this. Compare several types before deciding.
Hardware quality: The quality of locks, hinges and
catches should be evaluated since it can have a direct
effect on durability and is a good indicator of overall
construction quality.
Construction material: Storm doors of wood or steel
can also be purchased within the same price range as the
aluminum variety. They have the same quality differences
and should be similarly evaluated. The choice between
doors of similar quality but different material is
primarily up to your own personal taste.